Відео

This one is custom built, so no brand.

@@AdrenAddictionTV THANKS FOR THE ANSWER... HAVE GOOD LOOK..

Yep. Mud Buddy Frame.

@@AdrenAddictionTV THANKS.. IS THE ANSWER I NEED.. MUD BUDDY IS MY CHOICE. LOOK STRONG. TELL ME YOU STILL HAVE IT.?

@@miguellovino7679 We have it, but we don't use it anymore. It broke after 2 years of use. That's why we did the custom built frames. We wanted something that would last longer than two years.

@@AdrenAddictionTV WHAT PROBLEMS DID YOU HAVE..? THAT WOULD AFFECT MY DECISION TO BUY ONE..

@@miguellovino7679 The lower unit seals and bearing went out and the seals destroyed the shaft. So the only way to fix it was to replace the seals, bearing, and drive shaft. Way too expensive and too much hassle to have to do that every two years. That's why we went the custom build option. Those have lasted a really long time. We don't have one, but the SWOMP longtails from Backwater Inc seem like the best option for a longtail right now. Everyone seems to really like them.

7hp

Nope. Not a great design. That’s how it comes from the factory. You can see in our other videos that we were able to fix it completely.

Can you give a little more detail about this? Does this happen when you are starting out or once on plane or some other time? Depending on how it’s behaving, a cav plate may not fix it.

@@AdrenAddictionTV this happens anytime from start up at idle to reving up to governor speed. At first start up at idle speed it acts as if the prop is chopping the water and then give it a minute and it will bite and pick up speed and produce a huge wake behind the boat. Then when I start to give more throttle it pretty much does nothing, may increase speed by couple mph. I have a 1:1 ratio and a 9x5 or a 9x6 prop, ( can’t remember the prop pitch)

@@dooryardfabrication3973 Ok. That’s good info. I’ll apologize in advance cause this is going to be long. There are several things going on here. First of all, it is unlikely a cavitation plate is going to improve performance enough that you will be happy. A cavitation plate would be a bandaid that doesn’t address the core problem. As far as the core issues, i see three things: Propeller sizing/type, motor trim, and the gear ratio. I’ll start with trim because that is one thing that will impact all the others. When you say the prop is chopping the water at first start up, that tells me you are trimmed up to high. That’s why it chops before it bites. The fact that it’s doing what you say, tells me the prop is hooking up surprisingly well for it’s size. The reason it’s doing this chop, bite, big wake, and then nothing more, is because as the boat picks up speed and flattens out on plane, it’s picking the propeller further out of the water. The propeller can’t grip enough, so the engine revs a lot, but you don’t really pick up speed. There’s two ways to address this. 1) once you hit the point where it won’t speed up much, start trimming the prop lower into the water. As you do, you should here the engine start to load a bit more and you should see a larger increase in speed. 2) start with the prop fully submerged. If you can see or hear the prop chopping at the surface of the water, you are trimmed up too much. By starting the prop deeper, when the boat flattens out on plane, it will pull the prop up out of the water more and more. You will likely still need to fine tune the trim for max speed once you are on plane. Now to the props. Based on the sizes you listed I’m guessing these are either Hill Marine or Backwater Inc props. If it’s the ones I’m thinking of, those are super weedless style propellers. While it is possible to get them to surface drive, they aren’t intended for that type of running condition and can struggle sometimes. In regard to size, (9x5 or 9x6) the first number is the diameter of the prop and the second number is the pitch. Those are both very small props to be running on a 22 hp with a 1:1 gear ratio. That could be part of your trouble as well. It’s likely you will never get these props to fully load the engine because of how small they are. If you don’t pair the gear ratio and prop size correctly, it can result in a severe overpower condition where the motor turns the prop so hard that the prop “blows out” and you loose all bite. If you look at what companies like Mud Buddy and Gatortail do, they use a different style prop meant for surface drives. While this style has its faults too, it typically tolerates surface driving better than the super weedless. Hill Marine makes a 10x8 intended for surface drives that might be a better choice for your motor. On the gear ratio, if you decide you want/need to run a 9” prop, you will need to gear up some more. However, there is some risk with doing this. These props are meant for a certain rpm range. If you start spinning them too fast, then they don’t grab the water right. They may not be blowing out anymore, but they may feel soft rather than having a good bite on the water. I know that’s a lot more than you were probably expecting. Hope this is helpful!

@@AdrenAddictionTV wow this is a lot of great info. You are the most helpful person in the internet right now. Thank you so much. First off yes I am using a hill marine prop, (My shaft is 3/4” threaded, not a lot of companies with a wide range of threaded props) From what you’re describing I believe I need to prop up and ratio down in the prop. Because when I was testing, I was trying different trims (high trim, to medium to way deep in the water) and nothing changed, until it decided to bite with a little bit of speed. Maybe 6-8 mph. If that. So correct me if I’m wrong but what I’m thinking of trying is getting a 10x8 hill marine and changing my cog pulley (right now it’s 40teeth to 40 teeth) to 38T and 48T which will slow the prop to about 3100rpms. Do you believe that would be a good combination? I still think I’m going to add a cavitation plate just to help everything else. I also notice backwater has a threaded 11x10 that they recommend for 16-23hp. Thanks again so much for the help!

@@dooryardfabrication3973 Glad it's helpful! Yeah, that's true not many good propeller options for a 3/4-10 shaft. Based on your additional description, it sounds like your prop is blowing out. That's why the depth doesn't matter. That's a combination of the Hill Marine prop and the amount of power you have. The Hill Marine super weedless props have very little cupping compared to other brands. The cupping is what helps to keep the propeller from blowing out. I would start with the Hill Marine 10x8 and keep the gearing as is. If you dial back the gearing at the same time, you're going to end up under-propped again. It would act a little different, but you are still going to be restricted on top speed. That 10x8 has much better cupping on it, so you should see better results right away. Then once you know how the 10x8 responds, then you can determine if and which way you need to adjust your gearing. To give you a frame of reference, Mud Buddy is running an 11x10 with a 1.47:1 gear ratio on their 23hp engine. That particular setup will also spin their 12x10 propeller as well. That puts the prop at about 2660rpm when the engine is around 3870rpm. So if you are going to change your gear ratio to slow your prop down, you are going to need more prop to offset the slow down. Going to something that big isn't an option for you because they won't fit on your drive shaft. We've run props that blow out in combination with a cav plate in the past. The results are not great. There is a slight increase in performance, but I have to emphasize that it is very slight. Get the prop and gearing dialed in, and I think you'll be singing a different tune about the cav plate. Backwater props might be an option as well. We have never run them before, so I can't say how they work. We've run quite a few Hill Marine over the years. Supposedly the Backwater's are balanced. Hill Marine's are definitely not balanced.

Noise means POWER!!!!! 😁😂

@@AdrenAddictionTV exactly

@@AdrenAddictionTV I hope you keep posting more videos keep them up we got a build this community like go karts and minibikes

@@MudMotorsMax It’s been a while since we’ve posted new videos. We’re overdue to post some more. Have to get on that...

@@AdrenAddictionTV Definitely have to

Yep. Mud buddy 7 hp. It did make a substantial difference to add that on. If you don’t want to make one by hand, Backwater Inc used to make a kit for their surface tracer cavitation plate. Their design is the best we’ve seen on the market. Whether you make one or buy one, pay close attention to the angle you set it at. Setting it wrong can make your shallow water performance even worse than stock. Backwater Inc has a video on how to set the angle correctly.

Have you checked out our video titled "Canoe Motor Mount"? We detail how we built it, materials we used, and show some close up views from several angles.

The video is taken from a 9hp longtail that we built. The other boat is a 7 hp longtail that we also built. Both motors are on small Jon boats.

It’s a gorgeous area.

Can you tell us a little more about it? Is there a certain time it loses power? On a hot day? A cold day? After a certain time of driving? Carrying a heavy load? Etc?

Awesome! Actually we don't have a rain sock.....😂 We just try to keep it covered when it rains. We really probably should get something to protect it.

Ha! Awesome!

What size jet did you end up using with that intake and loop header

john pettley we're still trying to figure out jetting. This engine hasn't jetted as easily as the first one we did.

Hahaha! Well......the boat wasn't even close to floating where it stopped! I had to drag it over 200 yards before the water was deep enough to float with me in it. Once i made it there, i was able to get on plane just fine. It's a rock hard bottom out there as you know, so it was a pure water start ( no digging in mud). The water depth out there is all over the place. Most of it is around 4-6 inches. There are several stretches where the water isn't over the toe of my boot for 200+ yards. So yes, super skinny! We still run the EX21, but this motor is an EX27 with a cold air intake and performance header. Still running the governor and stock carb.

It's an aluminum jon boat we built. If you're looking for one similar, we'd recommend looking at Lowe or G3. The Lowe 1436 you see in our other videos has been out this trail several times also.

@@AdrenAddictionTV Thanks man, that's a cool rig. Have you seen much difference between a 1236 and a 1436? I'll keep my eye out for you guys, I live 10 minutes from Pintail Flats and just started running a scanoe pushed by a backwater motor. Gonna be a good year I think!

Matt G Awesome! We know a guy that ran a Longtail on a scanoe for years. He loved it. As you can tell from our videos, we ran a regular canoe for a little while too. They make great duck rigs. You can get places a lot of other people can't. We think backwater makes nice mud motors. As far as the 1236 vs 1436, it's an interesting comparison. They run very similarly but the 1436 will do better with more weight. It's very easy to overload either one, but the 1236 will be overcome by weight sooner. We know a guy with a Lowe 1236. Based on how it runs compared to our 1436, we've never regretted the 1436 for a second. It's been a fantastic boat. The advantage to the 1236 is probably maneuverability, due to 2 less get off length. Yep! We are looking forward to lots of water this year!

We get a pretty solid 15-16 most of the time.

Thanks. It's a home-built 7hp. It does pretty good.

Thanks! That's about 14 mph the video.

Sounds reasonable. We have a friend that ran a longtail mud motor on his flat back canoe for years and had great success with it. He was a big help to us when we were selecting a mud motor. Canoes with a longtail are very capable. One of the key advantages is being able to paddle them when needed. One thing to consider is a flat back canoe will take a little more effort to paddle than a traditional canoe, because the flat back will cause a little more drag as it goes through the water. Still very doable though. The flat back will shine with a motor on it because it controls the water flow to the prop better than a traditional canoe. We would recommended only running a longtail on a canoe. Surface drives will catch water on the drive housing and scoop it into the canoe. Surface drives count on drafting behind a large transom like on a Jon boat, etc. As far as the 12' length, you aren't going to get that with the longtail attached to the canoe. Whenever we run the longtail on the canoe, we disconnect the longtail and secure it to a little motor stand we made for transportation. You could do something similar that sits next to your canoe in the truck bed. We found having the motor and canoe separate made transporting and setting the boat in and out, much easier. Both our friend and us run American style longtails (as opposed to the Thai longtails). The American style have shorter prop shafts that make them easier to steer and control, which is something you will care about in a canoe. As far as brand of mud motor, this is where it gets touchy. Everyone has their favorite and swears by it. We'd recommend looking at Backwater Inc or Stump Jumper. Backwater has probably the most technologically advanced design, but they are a bit heavy. The Stump Jumper is lighter, but lacks adjustability in cavitation plate tuning (you will most likely have to adjust the cavitation plate no matter what brand you chose). Hope this helps!

AdrenAddictionTV appreciate the quick response! Do you think the shorter long tails would be better on the flat back canoe? Heard they perform more like an outboard than a 7’ longtail.

@@ldrown Yes. Shorter is better on a flat back canoe. We'd recommend a drive shaft length of 65" or less. The Mud Buddy motor shown in this video was advertised as a 60" drive shaft at the time we bought it. The shorter the drive shaft, the easier it will be to turn. Your shoulder will thank you.

Ask away!

@@AdrenAddictionTV How stable was it overall? I have a 14'x38" canoe that is fairly stable. We strap plastic 55gallon drums to each side with ratchet straps which really helps. (simple outrigger) anyway, I fish a lot of super calm, shallow rivers in Nebraska and I'm tired of rowing/having to take 2 trucks and all that. What size motor is that? I noticed they're making 3 hp kits which seems interesting/possibly safer.

@@mitchandopolis2665 The stability depends on how much gear is in the canoe and where it's located. With no gear in the canoe, it will roll upside down instantly if we let go of it. With about 20-30 lbs of gear at the very front, the boat is stable on it's own. Once we're in and the rest of the gear is in, it's very stable. The problem you have to overcome with a motor like this on a canoe is two things. The weight of the motor sits very high above the canoe. And all the weight is at one end over the narrowest part of the canoe. That's why adding weight to the front fixes the stability issue. It helps transfer weight to the center of the canoe where it's widest and most stable. As far as hp, that one is 7hp. The only time the power is a concern is in a really tight turn. We always make tight turns at an idle for safety. A good mud motor can generate a lot of thrust, so that's something to be mindful of. If you haven't already, we'd recommend watching our video on building the motor mount. We talk about some of the considerations of putting a mud motor on a canoe. A 3hp motor might not be too bad. Not sure how fast it'd go. We've also used an electric trolling motor on ours, and that works well too. Hope this helps!

@@mitchandopolis2665 As far as the 55 gallon drums you attach to each side, we would NOT recommend using those with a mud motor. It might even be questionable with a trolling motor. If the water catches the drum rim wrong, it could cause the canoe to lose control suddenly. The water dynamics get very different and interesting once you exceed about 3-4 mph.

Ryan, did you ever end up trying this out?

@@robertburkhardt9723 no, I never did, ended up moving away from the spot I would use it in. Still have the canoe though

Bro Dirt It didn't last well at all. The lower seals, bearing, and drive shaft were ruined in less than two years. We would not recommend it. We don't think Mud Buddy even makes them anymore. We would recommend Backwater Inc. Their motors are a bit heavier, but we've heard very good things about them. From a design standpoint, they also seem very solid and well thought out. Their cavitation plate is a very solid design and functions far better than other's. We think you'll get the best performance out of a Backwater Inc.

mrhuntinjunkie That canoe is actually surprisingly stable. Check out our video about building the motor mount. We talk a little about the safety concerns with this rig and how we addressed them.

This one is not a kit. It is a complete longtail made by Mud Buddy. We bought it fully assembled.

Nunya Nunya Yep! Goes anywhere!

We don't have experience running mud flats. We've run really shallow water, but not pure mud. The bottom in Utah is super hard, so digging in the mud isn't usually an option. You should do fine in shallow water, but your guess is as good as ours about running a mud flat. Sorry we can't be more help than that.

AdrenAddictionTV thank you awesome videos man

Corey Melancon Believe it or not, that's what it shipped with....

tony kent Depth was anywhere from 4-16 inches. Back in the weeds it was more like 4-10 inches. If you watch the other video called "Where the shore birds walk", you can see where the water comes on the bird's legs for reference. It was 3-6 inches in there.

Splat12313 Yeah. It's been way too long! More to come.

Good to hear. You guys still running the 7hp mudbuddy?

7hp, yes. Mud Buddy, no. After being rebuilt 3 times in less than three years, we gave up. Wasn't worth the time and money anymore. We moved the engine to a different longtail.

AdrenAddictionTV That's cool. What did you guys do with the Mud buddy frame? Was it just killing bearings or what?

Splat12313 Just kept the frame. Bearing and or seals kept going out.